Hout Bay

In a desperate bid to earn some money and keep me eating while writing up and looking for a job, I have taken a short-term job. It is an eradication project, to rid Hout Bay Harbour of the invasive alien crab, Carcinus maenas, or European Green Crab. I am actually the manager of a team of 9 minions - there were meant to be 10 minions, but one pulled out on day 1 so I am now a minion and minion manager.  It is all part of the project that has had me "catching crabs in Sea Point" this year. 

I've learnt some random things while in Hout Bay for the last couple of weeks: If you're going there as a tourist, you really want to be there in the morning (at least during the week in Winter), all the little informal shops close up by lunch time and the vibe changes to just a slightly seedy working harbour. (But thankfully with no creepy soap-selling girls) Saying that, the whole harbour is a little seedy all the time and should have a PG rating for language...I've heard words used in ways they shouldn't be... A lot... Everywhere. Although, the most disturbing thing is that there are Bergies (say it with a soft g and long r it means homeless people in Cape Townian) that hold fish in their mouths to feed the seals, for the enjoyment of the tourists, of course, and then they let the tourists (and the small children) pet the (WILD) seal. There are many reasons why this is disturbing, but I just dread the day a seal bites a tourist or child. It is illegal, but that doesn't stop many of the happenings in Hout Bay. 

If you are going there for lunch: Snoekies has the cheapest chips... Although Fish 4 Africa has a

cheaper chip roll. But I'm really not going to buy chips again... No, really! You can get instant coffee for R8, which is cheap, sure, but who pays for instant coffee?? Hot chocolate at the little kiosk is R16 which is comparatively expensive but when the wind is icy and you are wet through to the skin, nothing else will do... Well, wine would, but I'm working... OK you probably aren't going there for the cheapest possible chips, so I actually recommend the market on the weekend, which I haven't been to in months! And Mariner's Wharf is probably the classiest place - if you go upstairs! They also have a Winter specials menu. It is pretty difficult to find anything that isn't fish or chips, although there is a kiosk that has toasted sandwiches which I haven't been brave enough to try and a place called Ikhaya Coffee but that looks expensive so I haven't tried it out either... will keep you posted, I still have 6 weeks on the job. 

Clouds skipping over the mounta

Hout Bay harbour, as any where I guess, looks a little different everyday. My happiness levels are strongly correlated to sunshine availability but there's even something spectacular about the speed at which the clouds skip over the tops of the mountain (it's just not something my blackberry can photograph). There are bits of beauty everywhere, and a very dramatic setting, but the harbour could definitely do with some work and cleaning, and security... In my head I've always thought of Hout Bay as a really fancy place, but it apparently has a split personality. I have also always thought it's really far away, but it isn't actually, so I'm not sure how much you should trust my thoughts! (20-30minutes from Claremont, but my petrol usage is burning a hole in my pocket) !

Too adorable,
 3 sharks on my hand

Holding a fairly big
shy shark

There are more things living in the water than you'd think, mostly shy sharks, seals, crabs (of course) and klipvis (of a hundred different shades and patterns), but I truly love the shy sharks so it is great to hold them, see them up close and then let them go of course. The marine life is actually surprising to me because the water is (mostly) disgusting. From oil or diesel slicks to litter piled in corners and strange white effluents pumping into the shallows, never mind the fibre glass residue and other boat-maintenance gross-ness, it's a wonder anything lives here. If anyone knows who I can moan to about this, I'll write a strongly worded letter!! (Disturbingly, I was chatting to a frequent harbour-diver and she said Hout Bay is better than most, I slowly shake my head in despair!)

The trouble with having
an outside job

I've learnt stuff about myself too. And the crabs have been willing to teach me that when I get impatient with people I shouldn't be all cocky and take over, because that's when they'll pinch (and draw blood!!!) I have always known I don't like being told what to do, but I'm pretty strict on myself so I think I've turned out OK. Turns out I also don't like telling other people what to do (I'm not bad at it, I just don't like it, OK, maybe I am a little bad at it), I especially don't like saying the same thing more than once (oh wait, I knew that about me already). How hard is it to just do what you're supposed to do? It's also interesting that within a week I knew who, out of my team of 9 people, I'd want to employ were I in a position to employ people. That quickly... 1 week. First impressions do count.

And some first impressions are really interesting. People will happily admit to being poachers, swear colourfully at their boat-mate (then smile at you), or casually discuss the whereabouts of their drug stash. I had one occasion where I smiled and greeted a man, and he just laughed like a crazy person... I walked swiftly on. But, once you smell (yes, I stink) like the harbour, you blend in and stop getting asked for money. Then everyone, from the boat-yard mechanic to security guard to fisherman to restaurateur, to fancy boat-owner is friendly. They always have a smile and greeting for you, will chat about the catch, and offer suggestions (everyone has an opinion about where best to catch the crabs). Although I have been called "Mrs Crab" and "the crab lady" which I am not loving. The kids are attentive, interested and retain what you tell them to repeat to their friends the next time they see you. That really helps you get through a chilly, drizzly or boring day, so, smile it will help no matter where you are!

PS I cannot recommend Snoekies enough, they were so nice to us - ask for Richard! Admittedly I don't eat fish and that's the specialty, actually, it is pretty much their "only" but I'm sure their fish is great too... Their chips definitely are!!